AnOther director, critic, and self-proclaimed vogue nerd Alexander Fury’s new Re:SEE column takes a deep dive into classic vogue and his personal fabulous archive
To take a seat in a automobile with Alex Fury throughout vogue week is to take a deep dive right into a vogue obsessive’s thoughts. No sooner have the doorways closed and the car started to hurry off to the subsequent present on the schedule, AnOther’s vogue options director and self-proclaimed vogue nerd is reeling off obscure reference factors and influences from all through vogue historical past and name-dropping particular seems to be from particular collections – all whereas barely trying up from his cellphone.
He’s additionally a fantastic individual to dwell vicariously via, as he disappears off to fulfill vogue sellers, or for appointments in hidden-away classic shops, earlier than arriving again and detailing the fabulous outdated Lacroix, or Galliano, or Westwood items he’s simply managed to attain for his rising archive.
Although Fury has largely stored this archive, which now boasts over 3,000 items, beneath wraps, lending choose items to exhibitions around the globe, or in any other case to varied magazines for editorial shoots, throughout this season’s Haute Couture reveals in Paris, the author and editor opened it up for a small exhibition.
Conceptualised in partnership with OG luxurious resale vacation spot Re:SEE, Fury pulled a collection of black and white items from the vaults – particularly a full-to-bursting room in his East London residence, and a decidedly non-glam storage unit just a few miles away – to herald the launch of a brand new column devoted to classic vogue on the positioning.
Touchdown each month, Behind the Seams will revisit iconic collections, hone in on legendary clothes, unpack historic vogue references popularised on the runways of right now, and, extra pragmatically, element the best way to begin your personal archive, do you have to be into that form of factor.
“It’s going to be very instinctive,” explains Fury of the column. “I’d in all probability say it’s obsessive for different obsessives, speaking in regards to the ardour for amassing and making an attempt to open up the tales that I believe impressed individuals like myself to begin amassing. I believe when you consider classic you possibly can have a look at it in so many various methods. There will probably be ones based mostly on particular designers, ones on eras, and so forth.”
Given its debut coincided with the AW22 couture reveals, unsurprisingly, the primary version discusses the joy to be present in slipping into a few of vogue’s most grandiose, exquisitely made clothes.
“When individuals ask me what would I save if the home was burning down, I at all times say it’s the black and white Galliano costume from AW95 [worn by Carla Bruni, of which only six were ever made]” – Alexander Fury
With Fury sticking to a theme of ‘black and white’ for the launch exhibition (“There was no deep and significant there, it simply felt fairly concise – I may have simply as simply finished pink, or denim”), a classic Westwood bustle and corset from the designer’s AW95 assortment stood alongside that SS97 Gucci thong, whereas a cocktail costume by “criminally neglected” British designer Antony Value rubbed shoulders with a coat from Gaultier’s controversial ‘Stylish Rabbis’ present of 1993.
Nevertheless it’s John Galliano who options most closely inside the small edit, with a collection of seems to be spanning the course of the 90s, together with Fury’s personal holy vogue grail, on the line-up. “When individuals ask me what would I save if the home was burning down, I at all times say it’s the black and white Galliano costume from AW95 [worn by Carla Bruni, of which only six were ever made],” he says.
“For me, it was the beginning of this journey into vogue as one thing magical and transformative and transporting, which is why I additionally love vogue and why I believe vogue’s essential and why so many children fall in love with vogue. It’s at all times my counterargument when individuals discuss vogue being elitist and for the chosen few. The pictures can be found to everybody. They’ll make all types of little children dream.”
Learn the primary version of Fury’s column right here.